Before we start

How to measure your room

Fifteen minutes with a tape measure and your phone. Everything I design is built on these numbers, so it's worth doing carefully — a sofa that's two inches too wide is a very expensive mistake to unwind.

What you'll need A 25-foot tape measure (not a fabric one — they stretch), your phone, and something to write on. If someone can hold the other end of the tape, it goes twice as fast and the numbers come out better.
01

The room itself

Measure wall to wall at the baseboard, not at eye level. Walls are rarely square, so if two opposite walls differ, send me both numbers rather than averaging them.

length, wall to wall width window door swing
  • Length, wall to wall
  • Width, wall to wall
  • Ceiling height, floor to ceiling
  • If the ceiling slopes or steps, the height at its lowest and highest points
  • Which direction the main windows face, if you know — north, south, east, west
02

Doors and windows

These decide where furniture can't go, which is usually more useful than where it can.

  • Width and height of each window opening, trim included
  • Height from the floor to the top of the window trim
  • Height from the floor to the windowsill
  • Distance from each window to the nearest corner
  • Width of each doorway, and which way the door swings
  • Distance from each doorway to the nearest corner
Why the top of the window matters It sets where the curtain rod goes, which sets the finished length of the panels. Getting this number wrong is the single most common reason drapery has to be remade, and it's rarely a cheap fix.
03

Everything that can't move

Anything fixed to the room. Measure it and note how far it sits from the nearest corner.

  • Fireplace — width, height, and depth of the hearth
  • Built-ins, bookcases, or niches
  • Radiators, baseboard heaters, and floor or wall vents
  • Where the outlets are, especially any in the floor
  • Where the TV is, or where it has to go
  • Light switches and thermostats on the main walls
  • Ceiling fixtures — is there a box, and is it centered?
  • Stairs, columns, or half walls
04

What's staying

Anything you're keeping, whether it's a sofa or your grandmother's dresser. I design around these rather than working out later that they don't fit.

  • Width, depth, and height of every piece that's staying
  • Seat height for any chair or sofa you're keeping
  • Rug dimensions, if the rug is staying
  • Anything you love but aren't attached to keeping — tell me, and I'll say honestly whether it works
05

Photos

More than feels reasonable. I'd rather have forty and use six. Hold the phone level at chest height and stand with your back against the wall — shooting from a corner distorts the whole room.

  • Each wall, straight on, one at a time
  • All four corners
  • The view from the main doorway, standing in the opening
  • The view from the room looking back out
  • Close-ups of the floor, trim, and any existing finishes
  • The window with the blinds or curtains open
  • One full set in the morning and one in the late afternoon
  • Anything that annoys you about the room — photograph the problem
Why two times of day Photos lie about color. A room that looks warm and cream at 4pm can be flat and grey at 9am, and paint that's beautiful in one is wrong in the other. Two sets and I can see what the light actually does.
06

Send it over

Photos of your handwritten notes are completely fine — don't type anything up. A shared album, a Google Drive folder, or just a long email all work.

  • Measurements, photographed or typed
  • All the room photos
  • Anything saved from Pinterest or Instagram that you love
  • Anything you've already bought or ordered for the room
  • Your honest budget — it changes the plan more than any other single thing
Stuck on any of it? Send what you have and flag the rest. A quick video call where you walk me through the room with the tape measure sorts out anything confusing in about ten minutes, and it's often faster than measuring alone.